Nepal’s mountaineering history is not just about climbing mountains-it is also a story of bravery, military service, diplomacy, and exploration. The history can be understood in four main phases:

1. Warfare: The Beginning of International Involvement

The story starts with the Sugauli Treaty of 1816, signed on March 4 between Nepal and the British East India Company. The treaty had three main objectives (on my prospective of tourism not politically).

• To recruit Gurkha youth into the British army
• To place a British political officer in Kathmandu
• To establish British trade routes inside Nepal

After the treaty, Nepali youths began serving in the British army in 1816, and by 1817 they were fighting in major battles against the Marathas, Sikhs, and other groups (1817–1849). This opened new opportunities for Nepalis to see the world and gain military experience.

In the 1857 Sepoy Mutiny, Nepal supported the British. As a reward, on November 1, 1860, the British returned Kailali, Bardiya, Kanchanpur, and Banke districts to Nepal - this region is still known as the "Naya Muluk" (new country).

2. Frontier Expeditions and Early Exploration (1850–1895)

Between 1850 and 1857, the British started exploring the Himalayan frontier areas for both military and geographic knowledge.

Francis Younghusband’s Expedition (1886)

He was a British army and political officer sent to the Karakoram mountain region.

There, he was caught by a Russian team. One of the Gurkhas, Harkabir Thapa, bravely crossed Khardung La Pass and brought him back safely.

This event is one of the first written records of a Nepali’s involvement in Himalayan mountaineering.

William Martin Conway’s Expedition (1892)

Conway was a European art historian and famous travel writer. In 1892, he explored the Karakoram mountains. He took five soldiers from the 5th Gurkha Rifles:Parbir Thapa, Lila, Amar, Harkabir Thapa, and Karbir Budhathoki. These Gurkhas walked through high-altitude snow and rocks helping European explorers reach unknown regions.

3. Exploration and the Rise of Nepali Mountain Workers

C.G. Bruce – A British Mountaineer Who Loved the Gurkhas (team member of Everest expeditions in 1921 and 1924.)

Ø He wrote a book called “Twenty Years in the Himalaya”.

Ø He took Parbir Thapa to Switzerland for mountaineering training.

Ø He believed the Gurkhas were strong, brave, and perfect for mountain work.

Alps Journey (1894)

Karbir Budhathoki and a team trekked through the Alps Mountains in Europe. They traveled 1,200 km in 86 days, crossing 21 peaks and 36 mountain passes. Many peaks didn’t even have names at the time. One mountain in Switzerland was named Gurkha Peak (above 3,000m) in their honor.This showed how capable Nepalis were—even in Europe’s toughest mountains.

Tragedy at Nanga Parbat (1895)

British climber Albert F. Mummery tried to climb Nanga Parbat (6,600+ m). He was joined by Guman Singh Gurung and Raghubir Thapa. Sadly, all three died in the attempt - one of the first major mountaineering tragedies.

4. The Beginning of Mountaineering and the Role of Sherpas

Ø Interest in Everest (1893 onwards) British explorers were looking at Mount Everest, planning how to reach the top.

Ø At the same time, interest in Tibet and Himalayan politics was rising.

Ø Rubenson and the Sherpa Identity (1907)

Ø In 1907, Rubenson, a foreign explorer, wrote about Sherpas and used the word guide for them. This was the first written reference recognizing Sherpa people as mountain guides.

Dr. Alexander Kellas (1907–1909) A British scientist and explorer.

Ø He studied how Sherpas lived at high altitudes - above 3,000 to 4,000 meters.

Ø He said Sherpas were born and raised in the mountains, so they had natural strength and adaptation.

Ø Two Sherpas: Sona and Tuny, were possibly the first Sherpas involved in major expeditions.

Attempts to Open Everest (1908–1911)

The British wanted to climb Everest after the North Pole (by Americans) and South Pole (by Norwegians) were reached. They called Everest the “Third Pole.”

Nepal officially allowed Everest expeditions in 1911, but World War I began soon after. Expeditions were delayed until 1919/21.

Everest Expeditions and Nepali Involvement

1921 Everest Expedition: A large British team included 9 British, 7 Gurkhas, and 40 Sherpas. Nepali climber Tejbir Buda reached 27,000 feet, a great achievement.

1924 Tragedy: The team of George Mallory attempted Everest. Mallory and some Nepali climbers died. 

Biggest Tragedy in the Himalayas: Nanga Parbat 1934

A German team attempted to climb Nanga Parbat, also called the Mountain of Destiny. They made serious mistakes: The team was too big and too spread out.They ignored basic mountain safety. Heavy snow hit Camp 7. Sherpas like Nima, Gele, Ang Tsering, and Dakshya were trapped. They had no food, water, or fire. Many died, including Germans and Sherpas. Ang Tsering Sherpa survived and told the world about the incident. His loyalty and bravery helped make the Sherpa people world-famous for their strength and dedication.

Modern Sherpa Leadership

1950: Ang Tharkay Sherpa, He led a French expedition to Annapurna I. Though he did not reach the summit, he was a respected leader. He is known as the Father of Modern Sherpa Guides.

1953: The Greatest Achievement

On May 29, 1953, Tenzing Norgay Sherpa of Nepal and Sir Edmund Hillary became the first confirmed people to reach the summit of Mount Everest. This was not just a success for the climbers - it was a proud moment for Nepal and the Sherpa community.

Conclusion

Nepal’s mountaineering story is deeply rooted in its military, exploration, and spiritual traditions. From Gurkhas in the Alps to Sherpas on Everest, it is a story of courage, loyalty, and national pride. Today, Nepal is not only home to the world’s tallest peaks but also to the world’s finest climbers.